Aahhh, fashion. The drama, the excitement....that's often how fashion is portrayed in movies and television. And then, of course, it culminates in the "runway show", the theatrical or at least flashing lights and thumping music climax to all that drama and excitement. The reality is that there are loads of people working tirelessly behind the scenes to present clothes in a way that, at best, inspires people to dress beautifully or creatively. This comes from a combination of the "experts" in design, tailoring, and styling. Coming from a background of fashion design, the concept of creating a collection lies at the heart of what a wardrobe could or should be. A collection of pieces that expresses an idea of who the wearer is, and ideally is able to be worn in different ways to be appropriate for different occasions of that wearers' life.
That being said, there are some designers who make clothes that are more obviously wearable and there are others that push the boundaries of what we consider to be norms. However, that doesn't mean that everyone can't look to these ideas and fine morsels of input that we can add to our own fashion repertoire. In fact, in design school, one of the great lessons is that you need to know the rules to break them. Studying great designers and beautiful, well made clothes can help everyone understand the potential their own wardrobes and outfits can have. If you can try an element based on an idea from the runway or even a magazine editorial, you can decide if you like it or not, if it works for your body or lifestyle or not. If you don't try, you'll never know. However, I am not advocating following trends for trends sake. In fact, I'm going to walk you through how you can look at runway shows even from the last few decades and find ideas that you can use in your wardrobe today, to discover your style, feel current, but not focus on what's new and trendy in stores or social media.
The art of it:
The reason we look to fashion designers for inspiration is that they are the "artists" of fashion. I mean, what is art, right? Art is an expression of the artist. If it hits a nerve in the zeitgeist (or gets enough publicity) then that artist becomes well known. Fashion is effectively wearable art. It is typically an expression of the designer, but it has to play multiple roles. For those designers who create unwearable works of art, they are missing the fundamental utilitarianism that clothing needs to be. The best fashion designers make interesting, wearable and beautiful clothing that creates a hugely desirable avatar of the potential customer. Meaning, everyone (or lots of people) want to be the person that is wearing those clothes.
This goes back to a foundational understanding of your own personal style. For example, I know that I love wearable classic silhouettes done in a modern way, but also with a dash of glamour. I don't like to stand out too much, but if I'm going to, I want it to be for something fabulous! I like luxury materials, or at least the look of them. And I also like mixing up casual items with more formal ones. Now I can look at designers that offer me inspiration within these guidelines and come up with loads of chic options.
Where to find it:
So, where am I looking to find these options? My first go-to source is the runway pictures themselves. I love using the Vogue Runway app, and that is not a sponsor. It allows me to look at all the latest collections as well as look back over at least ten years of collections from all the designers, and even some vintage ones (the nineties) as well. As I was in fashion design school in the late nineties, this is probably my favorite era of fashion, plus the clothes were really great and created a lot of what we consider to be normal dressing today. Anyhow, I digress. I also suggest looking often at the resort and pre-fall collections from the bigger houses. They tend to be the more wearable versions of what they are showing in the main seasonal shows. The next best places to look are magazines, online or IRL. Although this will be edited, you can still get information about the seasonal shows and see how pieces can be mixed together in new ways. I also enjoy looking at online shops. You can look specifically for a designer and that brands website will probably show you the current and at least the previous seasons shows, as well as outfit inspiration. You can also look at online shops like MyTheresa.com which I think is very well merchandised for a webshop, and find great ideas for what is new that you might already have something similar in your closet. Even vintage webshops like Vestiare Collective, if you search by designer, you can get a feel of how those pieces might go together, even if they are from decades apart and from totally different designers for that house (Celine anyone?).
What to look for:
What you want to look for when dissecting the runway shows for your own closet capsuling, break down into how you would create any capsule: Color, theme, lifestyle. You'll also probably notice that in many runway shows, especially in Paris, there will be interpretations of wardrobe essentials mixed in. A version of a trench coat, wool coat, tuxedo, white shirt, tees and tanks, turtleneck sweaters, tailored pants and pencil skirts, or leather jackets. Some use these more than others, but it helps us look at how to style our own essentials in new ways.
Color combinations are a great starting point for looking at runway collections as this could be an easy way for you to look at combining your own clothing in a new way. There are some designers that use really interesting color combinations and a lot of others that mostly use neutrals with a pop of certain colors for a season. Sometimes it might just be a neutral outfit with a pop of color in a bag or shoe. Either way, see if anything resonates with what you have in your own closet. Also look for textures, pattern and fabric mixing or utilization. Are they mixing linen with metallics or using plaids and florals together? Do you like it?
Themes are a little more difficult to pick out sometimes on runway shows, but occasionally they will hit big. For example, the Seventies inpired shows of a few years ago, or Russian sailors, or Amazonian warriors, Eighties power suits, or Palm Beach glam. These themes can be really fun to play with in your own closet or see your husbands blazer in a whole new way. If you are young, this is a great opportunity to understand history and world culture. You can get a lot of understanding of themes from old movies, and looking at images on pinterest of some themes. The Vogue app usually includes reviews of the collection which will sometimes explain a theme that the designer was influenced by.
You might also notice how a designer is offering looks for a lifestyle that also works for you. Workwear, party looks, or glamorous casual wear. Really notice what is inspiring to you. Take screenshots or save images that you would like to use as an outfit or capsule collection idea.
Styling:
Obviously, a big take away from looking at runway shows is how they are styling the outfits. How are they layering, tucking, accessorizing? What hair/makeup are they doing? Does it work for you and your wardrobe/self? How are they mixing items, casual and formal, or proportions. Is it crop tops and long skirts or long and loose over more long and loose? Check out the accessories. Often the shoes, bags, or jewelry (and sunglasses) are what bring simple clothing to life or reinforces a particular theme or aesthetic: big earrings or aviator sunglasses and long hair or huge architectural handbags, or a big vintage looking mix of quirkiness. Also, an important thing to keep in mind, especially when looking back on older collections, is the shape of clothes. What I mean by this is that over decades, you will see smaller or larger shoulders, longer and shorter jacket lengths, high and low waists, different leg shapes and different exposed body parts. Keep in mind, first, what works for you and what you actually like, but also what feels current. Even if something from another decade is inspiring, you need to know how it can be worn today so it doesn't feel dated.
Vintage finds:
Lastly, knowing the collections, especially over time, can give you great insight into vintage shopping. Knowing that an item is vintage whatever decade versus from last year, can make those vintage finds a lot more fun. Keep in mind, you may have some in your own closet, and if you can still wear them, see about mixing them in new ways. If they don't suit you anymore, try selling them, it might be just the treasure someone else is looking for.
In the end, the idea is not to think of the runway as unattainable, but in fact, look for what can be pulled out of it. You don't have to like everything just because a designer made it or because it was on a catwalk. Like what you will, but be open to learning from the "experts" while you are on your own fashion journey. And mostly, don't take it too seriously, for us as consumers, fashion should be fun.